Days 9 & 10: Chiang Mai to Khun Chae National Park to Chiang Rai

Day 9: Chiang Mai to Khun Chae National Park
Distance biked: 79.93 kms / 49.67 miles
Time on the road: 4:23
Total Distance biked: 870.79 kms / 541.09 miles
Total time on the road: 43:17

I spent 4 days and nights in Chiang Mai just relaxing and catching up on the reading that I was hoping to do during my ride. I packed 6 books in my bike bag thinking that there'd be lots of free time to read in the evenings or during my lunchbreaks. In truth, I was in bed by 9PM or earlier most evenings and my lunchbreaks were filled with eating, drinking water, resting and writing in my road journal. So it was my mission to finish the two largest and heaviest books while in Chiang Mai and leave them behind. The city is full of great cafes and restaurants so it wasn't very difficult to find a place to sit and read for a few hours each day.

Two days in Chiang Mai probably would have sufficed for me to be rested enough to complete my trip but I think I was stalling for time because I was a bit worried about what the terrain between there and Chiang Rai would be like. Mr. Pumpy's ride ended in Chiang Mai and I hadn't talked with anyone about what the ride to Chiang Rai would be like. From my maps it looked like there were some pretty decent hills/inclines awaiting me. In my mind I imagined huge, fog covered mountains rising out of the green steamy Thai forest with long, steep twisting roads packed full of transport trucks pouring out thick black exhaust as I creaked slowly by inch by inch. Anytime I thought about what the ride would be like I had a nervous feeling in my stomach and would order an ice cream from the nearest shop or 7-11 (ice cream, I've discovered, is my personal security blanket of sorts - offering comfort and reassurance that everything will be just fine).

Wednesday morning arrived and I couldn't possible delay my trip any longer. It's either now or never. So, after giving myself a bit of a pep talk, I packed my bags, had one last cup of coffee at the guesthouse and pedaled up highway 118 for Chiang Rai. I was surprised at how smalls the hills were once out of the city. There were a few steep climbs but they always transitioned into nice long valley roads where I could catch speeds of 30KMH or more which would help me over the next rise. I never let myself get too comfortable though and reminded myself that just around the corner could be the mother of all hills just waiting for me.

At about 3PM it started to rain pretty heavily. I found a bamboo and thatch bus shelter to take cover under until it began to let up. I wasn't tired enough to begin looking for a place to pitch the hammock-tent so I continued biking in the light drizzle. Being wet sure beat biking in the heat and I didn't complain a bit. An hour or so later I entered Khun Chae National Park which seemed to be made up of one long valley. I cruised through most of the park with water and dirt spraying off my tires all over my face and back (no mud guards on this bike) but really I didn't care at all. I just wanted to see how far I could get before sundown.

Happily, I stumbled across a tourist area that advertised hot springs and spas and seemed to be geared more towards Thai tourists. I found a room at the only hotel in the area and, despite it being one of the dirtiest rooms I've ever checked into, I felt pretty lucky to have a roof over my head just as the sun was setting. I went to bed at around 9PM and drifted off to sleep hoping the ants and termites that infested the room would continue doing their business and leave me be.

Day 10: Khun Chae National Park to Chiang Rai
Distance biked: 116.32 kms / 72.28 miles
Time on the road: 5:22
Total Distance biked: 986.80 kms / 613.17 miles
Total time on the road: 48:40

I woke up refreshed and excited. If I could get some good distance in the morning I should be able to make it to Chiang Rai and my trip would be complete! I had no idea what the terrain ahead would be like and prepared myself mentally for the worst. I realized that it might be possible that I would finish the day only kilometers from my goal and I'd have to wait until Friday to reach Chiang Rai. It didn't matter. I was close and I'd get there in one or two days.

Energized, I hit the road and biked hard all morning. Again there were some decent and somewhat challenging hills but nothing that just went on and on. Plus, I've learned to pace myself while attempting to climb them. If I break the hill into smaller parts and take each part one by one I'm able to do it pretty easily.

At 11:50AM I stopped at a roadside restaurant for some noodle soup and a coke. It was a hot day again and I wanted to have a strong finish so I'd take an hour or so to eat and regain some energy. I chatted with another customer in English who was originally from the area but had moved to the southern islands of Thailand and was able to practice and learn English from the many tourists there. When he left the owner came out and sat down next to me. He didn't speak any English but we still communicated using my dictionary and gestures. He asked a few questions about my bike and my trip and I tried best to answer them. He then told me how he was in a motorbike accident and lost his right leg and pulled up his pants to reveal the metal prosthetic limb. I looked up the words for "I'm sorry" in my dictionary and said them. He thanked me and let out a loud sigh.

Thinking of something he got up and motioned for me to follow him as he limped towards the back of his restaurant. I walked slowly behind him into the dark recesses of the shop. He pointed at some really large hand-woven baskets that hung from the ceiling. He sighed again. I guessed that he had made them himself and now, after his accident, he couldn't make them anymore. Then he showed me the motorbike that he had the crash on and sighed, shaking his head. As he walked past me he put his hand on my waist and I moved away towards some animal skins he had hanging on the wall. He explained that he had killed the big snakes and rabbits and other creatures he had nailed there. Another sigh.

He waved me towards the deepest part of the store and out into a courtyard behind the building. There were large, square cinderblock tanks all around the yard. Each one was filled with murky, green water. One had frogs in them and another didn't appear to have anything except weeds and more scummy water. He called me over to the one that looked particularly lifeless, grabbing a handful of feed, threw it into the water. All of a sudden the water exploded violently as the fish fed on the grain. I'd never seen anything like it but it made me think of what piranhas would act like when feeding on the unsuspecting human who walked into their midst. I told him I'd never seen anything like it. Just then some ducks waddled by and the owner pointed to them and the fish and said the Thai word for "alone." Then he put his left arm around my waist and leaned his head on my right should and again said "alone...alone..."

My Thailand guidebook spoke about how Thai men and boys are often very physical with each other. It's not at all uncommon to see them holding hands, hugging or hanging on each other. It's just not meant in the sexual way way we think of it in the west - it's what all friends do as sign of comfort and male bonding. I've seen this behaviour throughout the country during my time here however his behaviour was not mentioned in my guidebook and frankly, it made me extremely uncomfortable. So, I said "Right - nice fish, sorry about the leg, gotta go." and quickly walked to the front of the restaurant.

Creeped out I gathered my things together and was about to get back on my bike when the owner limped out and handed me a piece of paper. On it was his name and telephone number. Obviously this guy wasn't getting the picture so I looked up the word "wife" in my dictionary and said to him: "I'm going to see my WIFE in Chiang Rai. My W-I-F-E. Goodbye!" I cycled off with 70 kilometers between me and the end of my journey. I arrived in Chiang Rai at 5PM and checked into a guesthouse that sounded pretty decent from my guidebook.

Megan and I have been "reunited" as she wrote in her recent entry and tonight we're heading up to the Akha House where I'll spend a few days before coming back into downtown Chiang Rai to clean up my bike and then try to sell it.

Thank you to everyone who followed along during my ride. It was really encouraging to have your support and feedback. I enjoyed the trip and am pretty sure that it will be just the first of many long-distance rides for me. Thanks again!