Days 3 & 4: Chai Nat to Nakhon Sawan to Phitsanulok

From the Corrections Department
So, I was wondering why whenever signs said a city was 30 kilometers away my bike computer would show that I traveled only 18.6 kms when I arrived. Well, I wonder no more. For some reason my bike computer shows speed in kilometers per hour but my tripometer is in miles. "KMH" is shown on the speed screen but no where is "miles" indicated for distance travelled. I just assumed it'd be kilometers. Anyway, I've gone back and adjusted all my past distances.

Day 3: Chai Nat to Nakhon Sawan
Distance biked: 60.92 kms / 37.86 miles
Time on the road: 2:45
Total Distance biked: 239.56 kms / 148.86 miles
Total time on the road: 11:27

After my ride on Saturday I slept in a bit Sunday morning and got on the road (highway 1) at around 9:00 after a quick yoghurt shake at 7-11 (which is everywhere in Thailand). It was a short, but very hot ride to Nakhon Sawan. It really felt like the sun was baking everything around me (and I was feeling the heat too). There wasn't a map for Nakhon Sawan in my guidebook so, using my Thai-English dictionary, I asked a motorcycle cop if he could tell me where the tourist information office was. He didn't speak much English but indicated for me to follow him as he rode to the office with me in tow. Unfortunately (or fortunately) the tourist office was closed and I sat on the steps debating my next move as the officer drove off. I noticed that about 100 meters away there was a Coca-Cola stand next to some tennis courts that looked pretty inviting. Thais have this great way of serving Coke. They get a plastic bag, fill it full of crushed ice and then pour the bottle of coke into the bag and give you a straw. Somehow it's much more refreshing that way.

I rode over to the stand, ordered a coke and sat at a small metal table nearby. Business was slow so the owner came over and started talking with me in Thai with a little English mixed in. Again, my dictionary was very helpful and I told him about my ride, our honeymoon trip and showed him pictures of family and friends I had brought with me. He was a really nice guy and we had a lot of fun communicating.

I told him I was looking for a cheap guesthouse for the night but he said he only knew of expensive touristy ones. I mentioned that I had a hammock/tent with me and asked if it'd be possible to stay at one of the Buddhist wats (temples). From what I understood it sounded like it was possible but might be complicated. Then he asked me if I wanted to stay at the tennis court that night. I thought it sounded like a good idea and said "OK." By that time a few tennis players had shown up and started discussing with the shop owner my plans for cycling up to Chiang Rai and my spending the night at the tennis courts. A guy named Jeed took charge of the situation and phoned the court manager and squared things away for me. It was settled, I'd be spending the night up on the second floor where spectators usually watch the tennis matches. Jeed then asked me if I'd like to join him and his family for dinner. He had a 10 year old daughter whom he wanted me to meet and help her practice English. I didn't have any plans for the evening so I said I'd love to meet his family.

We drove into downtown Nakhon Sawan, had a nice dinner and then Jeed told me that it was Visakha Puja, the day of Buddha's birth, enlightenment and death. Jeed asked me if I'd like to go with him and his family to the Nakhon Sawan Wat and take part in the ceremony. I'd never been to a Buddhist service and I told him I was excited for the opportunity to go.

The first thing I noticed as we approached the wat was the sweet smell of incense floating through the large golden gates. The sound of monks chanting over a loudspeaker could be heard as hundreds of worshippers walked in a clockwise circle around the wat with lit candles and incense and a lotus flower in their hands. It had an almost magical and carnival feeling to it. Everyone, from the youngest children to the oldest adults, was excited to be celebrating the most holy day in the Buddhist calendar. When the monk started chanting again Jeed led us 3 times around the wat and then we bowed three times before the large Buddha statue and placed small bits of gold flake on a different Buddha. I'm not sure what it all meant but it was fun to be included in something that was so special to them.

I met Jeed again this morning at 6AM as he unlocked the gate at the tennis courts. Before leaving he gave me a necklace with a picture of a very famous Thai monk on it. He said it was for my protection as I travelled. I thanked him again for his hospitality and pedaled for highway 117 which would take me north to Phitsanulok.

As I said, biking in Thailand has been great. The worst part (other than really hot days) is the amount of roadkill that litters the highway. What I mainly see (and smell) are snakes roasting in the sun. They're really big snakes too - the kind you'd see in a zoo. This photo shows probably the biggest snake I've seen yet (be warned: it's not a pretty picture). The thing was at least 3 feet long and a good 2.5 - 3 inches in diameter. And while I was having lunch today at a roadside cafe one of the workers came by with a plastic bag on a pole and in it was a long, dark snake that was still alive. I asked the waiter if it was poisonous and he said yes, it was. It certainly makes me think twice about just pitching my hammock-tent in any old place along the road.

Day 4: Nakhon Sawan to Phitsanulok
Distance biked: 140.23 kms / 87.14 miles
Time on the road: 6:29
Total Distance biked: 379.80 kms / 236 miles
Total time on the road: 17:56

I couldn't have asked for better weather to cycle in this morning. It was overcast but without the threat of rain. I made really good time up until about noon when the sun came out in full force. I tried to keep my body temperature down by taking quite a few breaks and sipping cold water from my Camel Bak. I reached Phitsanulok at 3:30PM today and registered at the Youth Hostel here in town.

Tomorrow I'm going west over to Sukhothai, the capital of Thailand from 1238-1376. It's just a short ride from here and hopefully it'll be a cool morning.